Wish us luck!!

Berlyn, you and your hubby should be very proud. I'm sure that John Chambers is smiling somewhere.

Hi TMK and Victor,

I'm enjoying your posts. Sounds like you're both in the beginning stages of your restoration.

I'm a total novice, never took a stove apart before in my life. I'm not that mechanical, either (I work with computers and barely have any tools even.) But, by necessity I had to take my stove apart. A lady gave me my Model B. It had been sitting in her shed for the past couple of years. While it wasn't sitting directly outdoors, with the dampness of No. California Bay area, it might as well have been. :-( All the bolts are rusted, and most of the springs were broken. The front lip of the broiler box is rusted thru, so I'm replacing it. Fortunately, the rest of the rust appears to be surface. But that's why I took mine all apart, to remove the rust and paint over it with the spray paint that inhibits rust. The frame looks really nice now that I've painted it flat black (with the High Heat paint that's made for painting barbeques.)

If your bolts are not too rusted, then disassembly isn't that hard. Just do yourself a favor and take lots of pictures and notes. Taking the front and side porcelain panels off are easy, and I think you'll find that they clean so much easier once they're off, especially the front where there's so many cut-outs. Taking the top off is quite difficult if your bolts are frozen (like mine), but if your top isn't pretty, then that drastically distracts from the beauty of the rest of the stove. That's why I took mine apart - the porcelain was way ugly. Now I'm trying to figure out how to clean the valves on the end of the gas lines (which I took off last night.)

Good luck, guys. Looking forward to following your sagas.

Tura.

I'm in california (SF bay area).. unless you were asking someone else [img]smile.gif[/img]

TMK,

I must have accidently looked at the wrong profile, but I was addressing you. With so many vintage restoration shops out in California you must have some pretty good turnaround times on rechroming and reporcelaining, plus you don't get nailed with the shipping charges.

Victor

Tura,

I discovered that my valves were painted over with car manifold paint, which flakes, so I am first going to soak them in paint thinner and then maybe use a wire wheel brush to take off any remaining patches. I am tempted to use the Easy Off Oven Cleaner first, but I am slightly worried that I may end up clogging the valve orifices with paint sludge. Anyone on the board is more than welcome to correct me if I am wrong.

Sammy, AKA Uncertain Stoveman, advised me to work on each valve one at a time and not to mix them up from their original placement on the manifold. I guess the threads on the valve and manifold are custom seated to one another after such a long period of time.

I plan on using stainless steel bolts, screws, and fasteners wherever I can on the rebuild.

Victor

P.S. I'm a novice and a computer professional too.

<font color="#FFFFFF" size="1">[ February 24, 2005 02:00 AM: Message edited by: vtran265 ]</font>

I used small ziplock bags to keep parts from getting confused. I just slipped a small cardboard tag inside each one with a note (written with a "Sharpie") detailing what and where.

Saves a lot of guessing when stuff piles up.

These also make great soaking "trays" for small parts and the solvent won't stink the palce up while their soaking.

Hey Stoveman,
I asked some of my Harley owner friends who does the best chrome job. You'd be amazed some of the hole in the wall places they suggested, then they show me the chrome work on their bike. I told Vinnie to do the same!!

Hey fellow restorers ;-)

Here's what we DIYers learned so far....
You can get some of the springs at an old fashion hardware store, not Home Depot or Lowe's. You'll be amazed at what you some across in there that the mega marts forgot about. Service is usually better there!! Oh, I love to stop in these old small town Texas hardware stores with wood floors and look around!!!! Hubby's so lucky........
Hubby used Rustoleum high heat black paint for the interior cabinet. It has a rust inhibitor in it. Some brands don't.
Guys, Hubby told me what he used to remove the rust, but can't remember it's name. I'll ask when he calls.
When you want a part restored and send out, call around for prices on chroming and reporcelian and ask turn around time. We were surprised with the differences in $$/time. Some are sent out of their local shop.
But most importantly bag and tag everything;i.e.back panel/10 screws, right side panel/8 screws, and take pics if possible with a card label of which view.
Anyone want to chime in on suggests, trial and errors, tips or trick???????????

Berlyn

Ok Berlyn, Here's a tip! When you are looking for someone to Rechrome a part, Go to the local Biker Bar. Order a full strength Bud. Strike up a conversation and ask them where to get Chrome done. I'll bet you a Six pack that someone there will know where the get the best job done and at the best price! Those guys love their bikes and won't stand for a bad chrome job! Regards, Sam

****UPDATE*******

We received our stove top in. It looks so shiny and new!! I will take pics as soon as possible. We are still cleaning, polishing or painting brackets, griddle/broiler, thermawell, etc... as we are reassembling. Reassembling is taking more time than disassembling, but we'll never have it apart anytime again, so DH wants everything thoroughly cleaned!!!

Stoveman,
While cleaning the griddle/broiler "box" I found a small "drip pan" app. 3"x10", does this go to the front or back of the griddle/broiler??? Is it a "drip pan" or what??? Also, how is the best way to clean the thermowell lid without ruining the rock wool insulation???

Thanks,
Berlyn